![]() ![]() I also tried infrared color film.VueScan is compatible with the Braun Phototechnik MultiMag SlideScan 4000 on Windows, macOS and Linux. But the prints might have an interesting look to them, which is why I tried that out in the first place. C-41? Ektachrome chemicals but skipping the reversal step? Doesn't matter, because I'm not doing it again. I developed slide film as negatives, though I don't recall specifically how. I also played around a bit with unmasked negatives. Once I finish that project, I'd like to scan some of my old black and white negatives. I recall being impressed with the results. VueScan has settings by film type, so it knows what the mask is supposed to be and compensates accordingly. It has been ages since I scanned negatives. I could try scanning in both negatives and prints of a few shots to see before I go to a lot of trouble. Maybe the difference is not really worth the trouble. Of course I could just scan in the prints on a flatbed, but figure that negative scans will give me much better quality. The negatives are in folders with prints, so it would be very easy to see which negatives I'd most want to scan. So there could be a lot of very scenic shots. The negatives are from a trip to Seattle and Glacier National Park after a train ride there. I vaguely remembering that it fell under or behind something when I moved it from lying on top of the scanner, and at the time, I thought, "I'll worry about crawling down and finding it when I'm done scanning all these slides." Process can be an important source of inspiration.Ĭlick to expand.That's for sure. I wouldn’t have shot all that film just to digitize it. There is no substitute for a silver print. IMO, film’s true superpower is making chemical prints in a darkroom. I’m only telling you this so you know I’m not just shooting from the hip. Scanners are so slow I would never have gotten it done. I was often doing HDR combined with and Panos without any problems. You need a good system and everything has to be squared up. I tested a lot of different options and using the camera was the clear winner. Thousands of individual images in formats large and small. Last year I digitized my entire portfolio. It’s also about as good as it gets and the 5D is still better. I also have a Microtek M1 for glassless scanning of all medium format size as well as all my large format film. Not that I won't look more into it, but I just can't see doing that right off to bat.Īfter finding out more about drum scanning, I"ve kinda given up on that, haha.īut looking maybe to upgrade my flatbed scanner at some point.Ĭlick to expand.I have a few. I think for 35mm film, using a Digital camera might be ok, but I just don't seem to like thinking about it for larger formats of film, at least at this point.Īlso it seems a bit more of a PITA to set up a DSLR/Mirrorless, level it, get your film mounted to something and that that surface is level, and then unless camera is down low enough to be able to look at the back to check focus, etc.and then worry about moving film for overlapping, etc (in the case of panos).just seems a lot more trouble than throwing into a holder in a scanner and getting 1 or more images all in one swoop, you know? Plus, with me, I'm shooting mostly larger format Medium Format film.like the 6x17 stuff, where I'd have to stitch the images together, which in my head, kinda negates shooting panoramic images in camera with no stitching in the first place. I know there's no real GOOD reason that I've found yet to date, against using a digital camera to digitize your film into the computer, but man.that just seems WRONG somehow.hahaha. (Sorry output size is about 1m x 1m dpi). ![]() Or you could just shoot digital and run the raws through a good film simulator like RNI. It sounds crazy but it's quite feasible to post your negs to him and get the digital files via we transfer, and then your negs back in the post later. Your V700 won't do a good medium format film justice if you are going to be looking at it critically, it's going to be (relatively) soft. For any special negatives / transparencies you may want to print big it's worth getting them scanned in this way, as it is, IMO, still the ultimate way to digitise your film. This would give you an output size of about 1.4m 300dpi. He takes orders from all over the world, and a 5000 dpi scan of 6圆 is £14. Mr Drum Scanner is Tim Parkin of Optimum Exposure / Professional Drum Scanning. Then there's the fact that the scanning process takes a lot of setting up they are wet scans and it's messy. ![]() ![]() You'd be looking at an old one that would require some refurbishment. I think there is only one company that makes them now, that's Aztec, and they are rather expensive ![]()
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